Last post (on bodywork) I had shown an image of the left side rear quarter (wing) which is now pretty much done. I have just a few touch-ups to do AND I need to extend the inside of the wheel arch by about an inch. The reason for that is that I had planned on using these parts as the permanent parts so in the case of the right side it was cut EXACTLY to the required dimensions. Now, however, since they are turning out to be the plug for new molds they really need to be longer than what is needed (the reason for this is that you want at least a small amount of material to trim back). I have enough extra on the other edges to not have to do this on every surface.. I added fiberglass to the inside of this wing by about 2" so plenty of room on this one to trim the part to the final dimension. Remember, this is the plug so the mold will be made from this....then the part from the mold. I learned a little trick from Youtube, you can use gyprock (drywall mud I call it) in lieu of bondo to finish the surface. For some reason, this wing had all sorts of dips and wowies in it. I took a 6" drywall taping knife with drywall joint finishing compound and basically hit the whole thing. After it dried, 220 grit sand paper with a long board and took almost all of it off. As you will note from the top two images you can get really sharp lines with this stuff (if you are careful). Speaking of careful, you have to be really careful with the part in this stage - the drywall mud has zero tensile strength so any twisting or rough handling of the part will crack the gyprock (it also dents easily). Getting some primer on is helpful, although it is still pretty fragile. After I prime it and block it again, then it gets covered with poylyester sealer. I am going to use epoxy to make the mold as it shrinks less than the polyester resin. The gyprock primered surface needs to be covered with the polyester sealer so that wax/pva can be applied - either epoxy resin or polyester resin would grab onto a primered surface and basically rip the paint/primer off and anything it was attached to. Ideally the plug would be coated with Duratec primer which is the best material for coating plugs/molds, I don't have ready access to a spray gun to put it on. The approach I am taking works just fine since the part is going to be primed and painted anyway.
Saturday, May 2, 2015
Monday, April 27, 2015
Saturday, April 25, 2015
Tuesday, April 21, 2015
A few months back I went over to my engine builder's to collect various parts and pieces to take to the plater. For some reason I had an image of my Tii crank pully as being a boat anchor (covered in rust etc.,) as it had been a while since I last saw that part. I figured while I was taking the rest of the lot in to get plated I might as well take care of that one. With as much work as I have taken to make this motor the best of the best (and yes, in my opinion it will be that) not going to skimp by re-attaching a rusted out tii crank pulley. No need to worry, the thing looked like it was NOS right out of a BmW bag. I took it with me anyway as I had some things I planned on doing. This motor uses a Gilmer belt drive system to drive the water pump. The outside of the pulley is that drive section and consists of the aluminum pulley. The pulley is specially machined to accept four 6mm x 30mm hex head cap screws which hold the pulley in place as well as inner and outer belt flanges. This pulley had some wear and tear on it so I took a little (very little) material off carefully with a flat file and then had the toothed section hard coat anodized. Anodizing adds a certain amount of mil thickness to the surface (don't know off hand how much that is, not a lot but more than most others), the idea is/was to fill in some of the blemishes with the hard coat anodize material. The center drive is for the standard tii/injection belt drive. The last pulley (far right) is for an externally mounted dry sump pump (AlpinA). Last year I horse traded my Heidegger dry sump pump for a NOS AlpinA dry sump pump (with pump pulley, crank pulley, mounts and belts). I sent the tii crank pulley off to a machinist friend (Terry Tinney). No go on using that bit of aluminum. Too thin, he wasn't confident in it so in a box it goes never to be used. He sourced a new pulley, machined it to fit so it could be pressed on (and then tig welded it on to tii pulley). For now, I am going to stay with the Schnitzer dry sump pump and pan - the ship sort of set sail on my motor and it would be a bit of reversal to make that change at this point (and I don't have the correct pan or filter head). At some point if I decide to make the change at least I won't have to remove the crank pulley which in the big picture is a pretty minor deal.
Tuesday, April 14, 2015
As you may have been able to tell from my previous post, I was able to retrieve my plating last week. It took me pretty much ALL weekend to sort back through it. I had cataloged most everything, with either photo's, descriptions (including measurements, type fastener, color (ie., black or gold zinc etc.,). I thought I had done a pretty good job - I did, but not good enough. This was a pretty large batch of parts, most did find a home - I have one small bag with ???? on it. The plating company took pictures of all the bags and then marked what got what coating. Everything I sent came back. It does give you some peace of mind when you see "irreplaceable parts" clearly marked on all the packaging. These guys while not inexpensive are really good. Patrick Ottis (Ferrari guru) and Phil Reilly & Co. send there stuff there....to name a few. There is a difference between top level plating and do-it-yourself and everything in between. In the interest of keeping as much as original as I can, I am re-using, refinishing what was originally on the car. If it doesn't need to be refinished then it isn't (most of it is.....as alot is buggered up, oily, dirty etc.,) As they say, the devils in the details.
Monday, April 13, 2015
After a couple of months I finally was able to retrieve all of my bits from the plater. I sent in quite a pile, a lot of the parts and pieces needed for final assembly of the Schnitzer 20,4 cylinder head plus a number of other things, this AlpinA M10 oil filter head being one of them. I found this part on Ebay back in 2011 and purchased for a "future" project. Two pieces, a standard Purolator 2oo2 Tii filter head that mates to the AlpinA oil cooler flange. There are a number of bosses on the cooler flange that would allow for a oil pressure/temp sender. Whenever possible I like to keep original fasteners and fittings and did so in this case. Some of the fittings had been buggered up over the years so a little clean up with a flat file - they came out really nice. The steel bits were cleaned and then finished with yellow zinc chromate, the aluminum was re-finished with Iridite 15.
Monday, April 6, 2015
Just when I thought I had it all (that is the Racing History of the AlpinA 2oo2 Gr. 2 car), something new pops up.....and what a beautiful thing this is. I had pretty much sorted out the races that the car competed at during the 1974 and 1975 season's, although there were a few weeks in there where it appeared the car didn't race. This was the second race the car competed in after a DNF at the 6 hour Nurburgring race July 14, 1974. In this race the car was piloted by Harald Ertl, Franz-Josef Rieder and ...... Dieter Quester. Not taking anything away from Harald Ertl, Franz-Josef Rieder or any of the others that drove the car previously (Thomas Betzler, Harald Grohs to name some others), but it is pretty exciting I think to own a car that Dieter Quester drove and to a victory no less (a 12 hour race is frosting on the cake I think). From what I was able to take away from the news article, the car had its ups and downs during the race (as most do in these endurance events), but for apparently about the last hour of the race the car was only running on two (2) cylinders. It finished with 285 laps completed. Map of the Österreichring race course below. Many thanks to my friend Andersson for sending this along to me.