Some of the hardware and fabricated brackets that go with the front brakes for the AlpinA race car. The black triangular piece is fabricated from steel and holds the holds the brake bulkhead adapter fitting. The fabricated part attaches to the inner wheel well and the bulkhead fitting takes the hard line from the master cylinder. Sometimes (often) it is easier to source new hardware than it is to try to re-finish the old. I sourced all this from BelMetric ( a really great source for metric hardware, Cohline fittings etc.,)
Wednesday, June 22, 2016
Monday, June 20, 2016
I had written an article a month or two ago on these mirrors. I purchased both off of Ebay, one came out of Spain, the other was here in the U.S. Both of them are the early (original style with the thin plastic surround). These mirrors were used on a whole host of cars, including Ferrari's, Alfa's, Porsche, BmW (AlpinA Gr. 2..:) etc., I bought the chrome one about a month ago, basically with time running out for Monterey in August I had decided unless the $$$ on the auction got stupid I was going to buy the unit. Really cool. NOS (New-Old-Stock), still in the box, perfect unused condition. Honestly it is really too nice to paint - yet it will get painted like the other. I had not even noticed the original user instruction folded up in the bottom of the box w/ classic Ferrari used as an example. Super cool.
Friday, June 3, 2016
Some of these are a couple of weeks old now, as of yesterday both rear quarters are on and now is just a matter of filling and sanding the attachment points. Right side is done, left (drivers side) is probably done now. Front fenders are likely going on today, most of the work was done on those, so in theory it should be a pretty quick process. I was really lucky with this project in that the shop owner also has a factory AlpinA race car with the same bodywork so he knew exactly what to do with the parts. By this I mean there is a very subtle body line in the rear quarters that runs from the furthest point back all the way to the door jamb. That body line should tie in to the body line in the door. Lots of work to make those body lines work together. Lesson learned is regardless of how good the body work is, there will in all likelihood be some cutting/grinding/patching >taking away material, adding material etc.< Every car is a little different so panels don't necessarily fit up exactly right.
Sunday, May 29, 2016
My engine builder built a new set of fuel injection lines (see previous post on that), we decided it would be a good idea to test them. It turned out to good that we did. I didn't observe the process building the lines, I do know this, it is a real bear. The line needs to be heated up and then have the fitting pressed in. The fitting is going into a 2mm diameter opening and is barbed. If the fitting is pressed into the line and not centered inside the line it can create a weak spot and then you have the potential to have a blow out in he line. At + 500 psi any weak spots become evident quickly. Gus (Pacific Fuel Injection) was demonstrating the testing for me - trust me when I tell you a +500 psi burst out of a pin hole goes a long way - stay away from flames! Great service, he hooks up my new lines to KF pump and spins it up for 15-20 minutes, interesting in that if you hold on to the line you can feel the fuel pulsing through. With the high pressure, the 2mm wall is critical to not having a line failure.
Friday, May 27, 2016
Images are a little foggy, sorry about that (camera phone and shaky hands). I will say I am really pleased with how clean the ignition wire arrangement came out. I had bought the raw wire from Magnecor and then they helped me find grommets of just the right size to fit around the spark plug socket. I spent several hours trying to find a grommet of the right dimension to fit into the valve cover (and around the socket) with no luck. If you search the internet and look at pictures of Schnitzer engines you see a wide variety of Ignition wires with differing spark plug sockets. I have a set of NOS Schnitzer Motorsport apark plug sockets that stick up through the valve cover. This motor utilizes a BMW Motorsport M12/7 distributor cap (they are expensive, years ago (not sure how much now) they were over $800.00, relatively hard to find in decent shape second hand). Bob Wirth was able to source a new set of Bosch Motorsport ignition wire protection caps (nice).
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Last last week I was able to get my instrument surround back from media blasting. Honestly, AlpinA did quite a bit of work fabricating that item, much more than just some sheet metal slammed together. I re-coated it with black wrinkle paint (which is similar to what was on it before). I let the paint dry for 24 hours and then baked it in the oven at 200 deg for 1 hour (that was an early Sunday morning operation conducted while my wife was still sleeping!). The heat helps cure the paint and at the same time tightens up the "wrinkle" in the paint. Hartmut at Palo Alto Speedometer (Palo Alto, CA) restored ALL of the gauges, several needed the internals re-built as they were not displaying accurate numbers. The SMITHS 10,000 RPM chronometric tacho also needed attention with some new internals as well as needles etc., The housings were all refurbished, bezels, o-rings etc., I had a number of the support brackets re-plated in gold zinc with a bunch of other parts that were being plated. I completely went through the wiring and cleaned all the connectors and wires with DW40, new zip ties etc., When I took everything apart several months ago I took 2o or so images of that process - glad I did. It isn't super complicated, yet had I not done that I am nearly certain something would have been not been hooked up correctly. Really pleased with the final product. This project is pretty much done, just one minor detail to wrap up...more on that later.
Sunday, May 22, 2016
My limited slip differential is undergoing a rebuild operation at the moment. The diff has a 75% Limited Slip and had a 5.86 gear set left over from the old days from Ricciardo Ricci and the hillclimb days in sicily. I was able to pry a 4.10 ring and pinion out of the claws of my friend Ken, so out with the 5.86 and in with the 4.10. The AlpinA unit is really simple, a steel casing that houses a set of gears, small drive gear ... oil in ... oil out. I liked the bare steel look so I used some Naval Jelly to strip the surface rust off and then a wire wheel. So that we don't repeat history with the rust, the exterior is sealed with some satin clear. Gears back in and then sealed back up with some RTV silicone. The fittings were all re-plated (I always try to use the original parts when I can), new Aeroquip hose and correct 'Norma' hose clamps. The mounting plate and the pair of long 8mm socket head bolts were plated in black zinc. I will have the whole thing (with diff) back together in the next couple of weeks.